Battle of the Bentos I: Asagaya

The intention and spirit of this site is to bring the best bits and hidden gems of Koenji and Asagaya to the English-reading world. To write about the events and establishments that illuminate its culture and character, especially by featuring the unique, the secret and the exceptional. And to give some ideas about where to shop and eat. Therefore, while a…

Good Morning Okinawa!

Just over a year ago, one of my first posts was about my favourite neighbourhood bakery, Good Morning Asagaya. And earlier this year, I was quite disappointed to say “Good-bye Good Morning Asagaya” as they were closing their doors for good. Perhaps the 600,000 yen monthly rent was too much for a small bakery and four-table café to…

Real, Not Rare, Cheesecake

While you may face considerable challenges trying to procure a big dark pumpernickel round, there is no shortage of good bakeries in Japan. (Of course, there’s also no shortage of mediocre ones.) With a market more saturated than the fat in a stick of Hokkaido butter, it can help to differentiate yourself — even when that…

Shoichi Nejime & Nejime

Being the most populous metropolitan area in the history of the world has both advantages and disadvantages. Tokyo has a spaghetti network of criss-crossing trains and subways that cover nearly every square metre of the city. And it is a great convenience. However, step into one during a rush hour commute and after a few…

New Year’s Sushi

While most people in Japan head back to their hometowns to spend New Year’s with family dining on (osechi ryori / おせち料理), there are many who stick around the city. Similarly, most shops and restaurants are closed for the New Year holiday — but there are those that remain open as well. Fortunately for Koenjagayans, one…

New Year’s Soba … ‘Chya!

If you live (or have lived) in Japan, you are no doubt familiar with toshikoshi soba (年越し蕎麦 or New Year’s soba). If not, it is Japanese tradition to eat soba on the last of the year, letting go of the hardships endured, with the buckwheat plant representing strength and resiliency. The tradition started sometime during the 250 years…