No Friend As Loyal As A Book

Said Ernest Hemingway. And perhaps I am in half-agreement, as there are two types of stores that I can spend hours lost inside: bookstores and record stores. It’s no secret that Koenji is a Tokyo hotbed for political discourse–or at least protest. It was after all the birthplace of Japanese punk, which at one time (before…

Board Game Bonanza

Since the 1970’s the gaming world has been shifting from the manual and mechanical to the digital and (more recently) mobile. The global video game market jumped from zero to $35 billion in its first decade and has since grown to $91.5 billion worldwide. Movies became games, games became movies and even those manual, physical,…

Battle of the Bentos I: Asagaya

The intention and spirit of this site is to bring the best bits and hidden gems of Koenji and Asagaya to the English-reading world. To write about the events and establishments that illuminate its culture and character, especially by featuring the unique, the secret and the exceptional. And to give some ideas about where to shop and eat. Therefore, while a…

Good Morning Okinawa!

Just over a year ago, one of my first posts was about my favourite neighbourhood bakery, Good Morning Asagaya. And earlier this year, I was quite disappointed to say “Good-bye Good Morning Asagaya” as they were closing their doors for good. Perhaps the 600,000 yen monthly rent was too much for a small bakery and four-table café to…

Shoichi Nejime & Nejime

Being the most populous metropolitan area in the history of the world has both advantages and disadvantages. Tokyo has a spaghetti network of criss-crossing trains and subways that cover nearly every square metre of the city. And it is a great convenience. However, step into one during a rush hour commute and after a few…

Homestyle Bakery Home Bakery Pop

During some random, directionless wandering of the neighbourhood today, I came upon not only the impressive campus of Nihon University Second High & High School, I also found a new bakery: Home Bakery Pop (ホームベーカリーPOP). Even though it falls just outside the border of Koenjagaya and it’s a small shop with not a huge selection,…

Gorgeous Gallery of Handmade Household Goods

Beside the Kaldi shop, overlooking Asagaya’s Pearl Shotengai from the 2nd floor, is a halcyon shop and gallery of handmade Japanese tableware and miscellaneous goods (or zakka, 雑貨). ZAKKA 土の記憶 (Tsuchi no Kioku), or “Memories of the Clay”, is a shop and exhibition space with a constantly changing inventory of beautiful handmade goods. Exhibitions highlighting…

Honey, Damn Good Honey.

It’s time to bee serious. One thing I love is finding a specialist. Especially one who loves what they do. And that’s exactly what I found at Yoshino Junsui Hachimitsuten (hachimitsu ten = honey shop) on Koenji’s north side, nearing the far end of Koshin Dori shotengai. Everything from the owner’s explanation about the varieties…

Sincere Gelato… and Damn Good Coffee

Gelato Master Nakai Yosuke wants to bring the experience of small town Italy to Tokyo. And he does so with his elegant gelato shop just north of Asagaya Station. It’s down the hill at the end of Shouwakai Shotengai, but definitely worth the short hike. With perennial standards like pistachio (the must-try flavour), Gelateria Sincertia…

Sugimoney Sold Out in 18 Minutes

We were fortunate to be having breakfast this morning at Victory Cafe, a small chain with 13 cafes across Japan, one of which is on Asagaya’s Pearl Shotengai. Noticing a line of people forming outside, I asked the girl behind the counter what was so special next door. She informed me they were queuing to…

Soba by Day…

Izakaya by night, soba shop by day, Kakizawa Soba is located a few steps down a side street off the Asagaya Pearl Shotengai. They’ve got a great lunch set for ¥1,150 that includes three pieces of lightly fried tempura, soba, rice, tsukemono and tea. A high ceiling, modern interior and background jazz make for a…

Za Market of Za Koenji

Za Koenji is a public theatre for contemporary performing arts on the north side of the JR tracks near Kannana-Dori. Funded by the city of Suginami and managed by an NPO, the theatre produces, presents and supports a wide range of cultural activities from drama and dance to music and storytelling — and beyond. This weekend its…